Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Villa Doria Pamphilij

I know of a place
Where time broke down
And the city ceased to exist

Where statues keep watch
Over laughing young kids
And lovers who come for a tryst

Where stone feet stand guard
Over a well-worn path
And the palm trees that grow far below

Where the fountain won’t work
And moss covers the steps
And the fish in the stream grow and grow

In this special place
Where umbrella trees stand
A sunset can last for a day

And it’s in this place
Where time broke down
That my heart has decided to stay


Tuesday, November 2, 2010

When in Rome...


Me and Sami the soccer player.
















…do as the Romans do.” Or at least try. The Roman will probably do it better.

For our Halloween party, a bunch of us decided to dress up as figures from Roman history and myth. I went as Minerva (note the owl). Two of my professors went as Roman senators. The actual Roman (another of my teachers) forgot to dress up. Jokingly, we tossed him a sheet, and I cried, “Quick, you Roman, you. Let’s see how fast you can put on a toga.” Not two seconds later, there he stood in all his toga-ed glory. He can even orate like an ancient Roman…


Me, Emilio (front), Dr. Paradise, Dr. Davidson.












Other party guests included the Absinthe Fairy, a couple of tourists, a gypsy, Carnevale revelers, the devil, and Josie and the Pussycats. The three-year-old soccer player had the camera for most of the night, so the majority of the pictures turned out something like this:
Whitney as Princess Leia, Shelby as a 1920s flapper, Emilio, Julia as Snow White, Immanuele as a knight, and Ryan as a 1920s gangster.
Gary as a Catholic priest, my head, and Sherri, Anna, and Alex's arm as Josie and the Pussycats.
Turner as a French tourist, Brittany as the Absinthe Fairy.

Monday, November 1, 2010

It’s been a heck of a week.

Well, two weeks, actually. Last week, we went to see the Vatican Museums for one of my classes. Emilio got us prepaid tickets, so we didn’t have to wait in the line that stretches right around the Vatican wall, and we spent most of the morning and part of the afternoon in the museums, wandering from one famous work of art to the next. We all brought our passports, hoping that, since the Vatican City is in fact its own country, we would get our passports stamped, but alas, ‘twas not meant to be, though the entrance to the museums was like an airport security checkpoint on steroids. Metal detectors, guards everywhere, tourists pulling out pocket knives and asking loudly whether or not they would have to give them up. It was fun.

Last weekend, we went to tour the Veneto, the region of northern Italy where Venice, Verona, and Vicenza are located. We took off Friday morning (early Friday morning) and didn’t get back until late Tuesday night. Our day trips to Vicenza and Verona were neat, but it was pouring rain and freezing cold, so that kind of put a damper on things. In Vicenza, we got to see the Theatro Olimpico, a Roman-type theater built by Palladio in the 1580s. It is said that it is the oldest surviving enclosed theater in the world, home to the oldest surviving stage set in the world.

In Verona, we saw the castle, ate (amazing!) Chinese food, and then talked Emilio into taking us to see Juliet’s Wall. Just FYI, they don’t actually allow you to post letters to Juliet on the wall. The thing to do is sign the wall of the tunnel leading to her courtyard. And the house is in the midst of Verona’s shopping district, so the cute little cafes and whatnot shown in the movie are really clothing and leather stores. Needless to say, we were rather disappointed. Some of the girls paid the entry fee to go inside Juliet’s house, and they found some sort of email thing to post their letters, but it’s just not the same thing. It was worth a shot though.

Venice. Ah, Venice. I think that might be the coolest city I’ve ever visited. It reminded me of Labyrinth, the 1986 Jim Henson film starring David Bowie. Imagine narrow streets (I say narrow, and you’re probably thinking charming-medieval-maze-narrow, but I’m talking turn-sideways-to-pass-another-person-narrow) that climb and descend bridge after bridge, run into dead ends on canals, and simply go through buildings instead of around them. That’s the Labyrinth. Now, line those streets with shops selling Carnevale masks that range from breathtakingly beautiful (I bought one of those) to downright grotesque. Those would be the goblins. Add to that the fact that time plays all kinds of games within the city, and it’s not too much of a stretch to imagine a Goblin King playing with a 13-hour clock and singing about magic spells in that palazzo you just can’t quite seem to reach.

We reached the city by crossing the lagoon from the mainland on the train, and when we exited the train station into the bright Adriatic sunshine, I couldn’t help it: I gasped. I’d seen plenty of pictures of Venice and the Grand Canal. I knew that it was there and how the whole system worked, but I didn’t know, you know? The sight of the water buses, gondolas, and yes, even the trash barges, sailing through the glittering blue water between the buildings, like it was the most natural thing in the world, got me. There were no words to describe my amazement. If I remember correctly, the first thing I did in Venice upon exiting the train station was turn to Bonnie and say, quite eloquently I might add, “Wow.”




















These signs were right around the corner from our hotel on the grand canal. The Venetians are so helpful.... Despite their best efforts, we found our way to and from both the Rialto Bridge and the Piazza San Marco (with the Doge's Palace) on our own. Repeatedly. I feel very accomplished.



















Friday, October 15, 2010

I suppose I should mention...

...that we spent the morning at Hadrian’s Villa, just outside Tivoli. Also amazing, but less vibrant than Villa d’Este. I mean, because of my background (and particular brand of geekiness), I could see it in living color, maybe not as vividly as I could Villa d’Este, but I still had fun. I know it doesn't look like much now (the pictures don't even begin to do the site justice), but architecturally speaking, this place was revolutionary in its day.





















The so-called "Maritime Theater," named because of a misinterpretation of the space early on. Rather than being a theater, it was actually the Emperor's private home-within-a-home. An imperial villa was like a small city, with family, friends, politicians, and servants crawling all over the place (though the servants were relegated to neat subterranean tunnels and rooms so that they could get from place to place without being seen), and that would naturally try the patience of anyone, so Hadrian built himself a little island, surrounded by a moat and accessed by drawbridges, that he could use to escape from everything else and just think. I think I want one...





















Among the ancient Romans, homosexuality was just a part of life. Hadrian was married, but apparently, he and his wife did not get along, even a little bit, and Hadrian fell in love with a boy named Antinous, who died mysteriously in the Nile (by that, I mean that why he was in the Nile in the first place is mysterious - fall, push, jump - not his actual cause of death - drowning). After the incident, Hadrian built the Canopus to symbolize the Nile, and he decorated it with statues of a deified Antinous so that when he dined in the special triclinium (dining room with three couches) at the end of the canal, he could be reminded of his love.





The Large Baths at the villa have one of the best-preserved roofs on the site, at least from what I could tell. I would have felt better about standing under said roof, had I not just come from several buildings that had massive chunks of their roofs lying on the floor.
By the way, Hadrian's Villa is the reason why my camera ran out of battery at Villa d'Este. I took 86 pictures. I didn't even clear 60 at Ostia, and that was an entire city. Anyway, I enjoyed Hadrian's Villa so much that I used up enough of my battery that I only got 20 pictures of Villa d'Este. Amazing day though, and a few of us are hoping to go back to Tivoli one evening to see both sites lit up. Can't wait!

I used to think Alice was an idiot.

So much trouble and so many questionable decisions, just to get into a garden: drinking magic potions, eating giant mushrooms, taking advice from crazy people, abusing hedgehogs and flamingoes (you know that croquet game couldn’t have been fun for either creature) for the amusement of a homicidal queen, the list goes on and on. Just to get into a garden she glimpsed through a keyhole.

I now know how she felt. I just spent the afternoon in the most beautiful garden I’ve ever seen. It is the garden at the Villa d’Este in Tivoli, about an hour east of Rome. The garden is built in terraces going down the hillside behind the villa, and it truly is a Wonderland. My camera died partway through the trip, but I still feel that I got enough good pictures to let them speak for themselves:






Monday, October 11, 2010

Il Palio...Monty Python Style














Alyssa, Shelby, Sherri, Michelle, Me, and Whitney on top of the Duomo.

At the crack of dawn on Thursday, we began a whirlwind tour through Tuscany. We took a high-speed train from Roma Stazione Termini to Florence, where we spent the rest of Thursday and Friday. Florence was nice, but incredibly touristy. I am pretty sure I heard more English in my two days in Florence than I’ve heard in the rest of the month and a half I’ve been in Italy. We got to see palaces, a science museum from the 19th Century, churches aplenty, and famous works of art (Mom, I did see Leo, but I didn’t get to say hi, as he was a bit busy at the time), and we even got to climb to the top of the Duomo and see Florence from above.


On Saturday, we left Florence for Siena, but along the way, we stopped in the medieval town of San Gimignano, the “Manhattan of the Middle Ages.” It was amazing! We got off the bus near a supermarket and had to climb the hill, but at the top, we were greeted by imposing stone walls and a skyline of towers and clay-tiled roofs. I climbed the tallest tower (54 meters tall, built in 1311) with a couple of the girls, and I was able to admire some truly beautiful views of the Tuscan countryside. And I got a gelato from what is officially the best gelateria in the world (this place actually did win the world championships for gelato from 2006-2009). After San Gimignano, we went to another medieval village, this one named Monteriggioni. Like San Gimignano, this town is surrounded by stone walls, but the wall of this one forms a sort of crown around the top of the hill. This town was pretty neat, but San Gimignano was definitely cooler.

Siena was nice as well. Siena is also where the Monty Python bit comes into play. Il Palio is a horserace that takes place in the Piazza del Campo in July and August every year. Jockeys from each of Siena’s highly competitive neighborhoods don period dress and ride bareback at breakneck speeds around the piazza. To give you an idea of how hardcore this race is, I’ll just point out that both riders and horses are blessed by a priest before the race, and that a horse is not required to have its rider at the end to win. In tribute to Il Palio di Siena, Sherri, Michelle, Whitney and I (Shelby filmed the whole affair – and apparently giggled about it) held a short race of our own:


We spent the last part of Saturday, as well as Sunday morning in Siena, wandering back and forth across the old part of town. On Sunday, we left to head back to Rome by bus, but along the way, we had two more stops to make. First was Pienza, where we saw a church and wandered around taking pictures from the walls, and then came Montepulciano, where we saw what I think is my favorite church to date. After that, it was a couple more hours of driving through the Tuscan countryside and then the suburbs of Home Sweet Rome.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

"Inactivity is death."

Have you ever seen one of those post-apocalyptic type scenes that come up so often in science fiction movies? A group of road weary travelers finally arrives in a new place (city, planet, time, etc.) and takes their first steps outside, only to find the place completely deserted. It's the futuristic version of the Old West ghost town (usually minus the tumbleweed that rolls across the main street).












*Scene from the popular science fiction movie "Serenity." *

Fascist Italian dictator Benito Mussolini once said that "Inactivity is death." I think it is interesting, then, to note that the EUR (a neighborhood begun under Mussolini in the 1930s and completed in the 1960s) is just about the most inactive place I've ever been. Even though the place was full of people, I still felt like I was walking through an alien ghost town, and I had the nagging feeling that I should be watching out for zombies as I turned corners. It was futuristic, but at the same time, it was ancient and dead. The whole place was just cold and austere - and downright creepy.